Brands Test and Taste Their Way Into Consumers' Kitchens


It’s a Friday afternnon in March and the smell of hot processed cheese is filling the Kraft test kitchen.

Robin Ross, director of culinary at Kraft, has just given me a tour of the facility, which lies at the heart of the company’s headquarters in suburban Chicago. Now she wants us to eat the slow-cooked beef chili the kitchen has made for my visit, but the pungent aroma of cheese burbling in a nearby oven, a smell that will cling to my clothes for hours, is making me vaguely nauseous.

A bowl of the chili is put before me, with neon orange shredded cheese sprinkled on top.

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