Baking’s New Coke

The more things change, the more they stay the same. Except for flour.

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According to The New York Times, The J. M. Smucker Company, bought the White Lily brand a year ago, and is now producing White Lily at two plants in the Midwest, instead of in downtown Knoxville, where it has been milled since 1883.

Maribeth Badertscher, a spokeswoman for the company, said the new White Lily was the result of thorough product testing and promised that customers “won’t know the difference.” But in a blind test for The New York Times, two bakers could immediately tell the old from the new.

Fred W. Sauceman, author of a series of books called The Place Setting: Timeless Tastes of the Mountain South, From Bright Hope to Frog Level, said, “It means something to have been made in the exact same spot for 125 years, and it’s unconscionable not to respect that.”

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